So yesterday I was able to finish my third and final poncho toile. My last two ones where made out of calico and seeing as my final fabric is going to be silk satin, I needed to see how a light weight fabric would affect the overall silhouette. I had to make a few changes on my pattern pieces such as making sure that the shoulder seams would match up. Overall toiling with a delicate light weight fabric such as silk made the pattern cutting and sewing a little challenging as the fabric is rather slippery. This is something I need to be cautious about when using my final fabric. The finishing and stitching towards the end is not my best, but I am certain it will look much cleaner on my final garment. Thankfully I will be laminating my silk with PVC which will make it less slippery and easier to work with! Below are images of how I constructed my toile:
1. Cut out the main patterns which are the front, back and hood.
2. Sew the front and the backs together. Sew the two back halves together along the center back. Then sew the fronts together along the center front but leaving 10cm allowance from the neckline downwards. Afterwards, sew the front and back together along the shoulder creating a shoulder seam.
3. Sew the inside sleeves together with a 56cm zipper. (To make it look more fitted, add a snap button on the front at the end closest to the waist.
4. Overlock the hood onto the neckline. When using silk, try and avoid creating pleats along the neckline.
5. Construct and sew the detachable bag and add double jetted pockets with zips. Press on interfacing on where the inside of the bag is going to be to make it more stiff.
6. Use the back bag pattern to mark the zipper opening. Mark 16cm for the opening and stitching line. Then mark 1cm from the top and bottom of the 2 end points to draw a triangle.
7. Fold jets in half and press. When using silk, add facing so the fabric is more stiff.
8. Fold fusible in quarters then mark the opening line in the center.
9. Place jets on the opening line and stitch along the markings. When doing this, make sure the fusible is on the back side to stitch everything all together. Then cut the opening line open but leaving 1cm allowance on each end. Cut triangles on the ends instead when folding the jets inside easier.
10. Stitch on zipper on the jets.
11. Attach pocket bag. make sure to overlock the edges.
12. Add leaf design detail by stitching on rope creating leaf vine designs. Add binding to get rid of the raw edges. Then sew One half of the open zip.
Stitching and finishing needs to be WAY better than this!!
13. Zip on bag halves on each side of the front.
14. Voila the final outcome!